Jonathan Anderson’s Highly Anticipated Dior Homme Collection Unveiled in Paris
Paris, January 21 – Jonathan Anderson, the acclaimed fashion designer, returned to Paris on Wednesday with his new Dior Homme collection, a pivotal moment set to cement the brand’s revitalized identity and pave the way for its haute couture debut. The show, held on the second day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week at the Rodin Museum gardens at 2:30 PM (1:30 PM GMT), was a highlight of the week.
“There’s a lot of anticipation, a lot of pressure,” confirmed Alice Feillard, men’s buying director at Galeries Lafayette, to AFP.
A Dandy Invitation and Reinterpreted Classics
Anderson once again meticulously crafted his invitation. Following previous iterations featuring plates adorned with eggs and then walnuts, this time he sent a very dandy silk collar, reminiscent of a bygone era. For his initial collection, the 41-year-old Northern Irish designer drew inspiration from the archives of the house founded in 1946, reinterpreting the multi-pleated Delft dress through wide cargo shorts and updating the iconic Bar jacket, with its cinched waist and rounded hips.
“My idea is that we need to decipher and reprogram Dior,” he explained, “Dior is a house capable of being reborn within itself.”
The previous show, which attracted numerous stars including Rihanna, Daniel Craig, Sabrina Carpenter, and Robert Pattinson, concluded with a standing ovation and glowing reviews. The press lauded a perfect balance between heritage and reinvention.
“Consolidate” – A New Direction for Dior Homme
Franck Nauerz, director of men’s departments at Le Bon Marché and La Samaritaine, analyzed the shift: “After 10 years of Kim Jones and his ‘remarkable’ tailoring work, Jonathan Anderson has offered a completely different approach, with much more creative, more casual associations, a little less tailoring.”
“It was a very promising first collection, but it will be necessary to consolidate with the needs of everyone,” cautioned the specialist. His first women’s line, presented in October, received a more nuanced reception.
“My role, as artistic director of Dior, is to lead our clientele into a new chapter, while attracting another audience. And I hope to bring this new Dior aesthetic into everyday reality,” the designer told Le Figaro in early January.
Jonathan Anderson is considered one of fashion’s prodigies. Praised for bringing the Spanish brand Loewe, also owned by LVMH, to the forefront, he has built a reputation as a designer with impeccable cuts and a generous use of noble materials such as leather and metal. His notable creations include stage outfits for Beyoncé and Rihanna. He also designed the costumes for “Challengers” and “Queer,” two films by Italian director Luca Guadagnino.
Haute Couture Objective and Industry Buzz
Appointed last June to replace Maria Grazia Chiuri at the helm of the women’s collections, just weeks after joining Dior Homme, he has become the first designer since Christian Dior to oversee all three lines of LVMH’s flagship house, including haute couture, with his first collection to be presented on January 26 in Paris.
“He is highly anticipated” for this unprecedented exercise, emphasized fashion journalist Marc Beaugé. A similar challenge awaits the new artistic director of Chanel, Franco-Belgian Matthieu Blazy, the following day.
Both designers offered a glimpse of their expertise at the recent Golden Globes ceremony in Los Angeles. Jonathan Anderson dressed Irish actress Jessie Buckley in a long, light blue strapless dress with a high slit, and American actress Rashida Jones in a sheer black lace dress, while American star Selena Gomez wore a black sheath dress with a feather-covered neckline by Chanel.
Until January 25, 66 houses will unveil their new winter collections through 36 shows and 30 presentations. Among other highlights of the week, Véronique Nichanian will present her final collection for Hermès on Saturday evening after 37 years at the head of the men’s line, before handing over to Grace Wales Bonner in 2027.
Source: boursorama.com
